"I want some kalamari"! We shall always remember those words, uttered with unerring regularity by Steve whenever we even hinted at going out to eat. It was one of his favourite dishes, and where better to get fresh squid than tavernas in Greece? When Steve and Jeanna accompanied us on their first visit to Athens, bought as a Christmas present for them by their children Katie, Leonie and Jonathan, we were so glad that they could see the real Greece as we have, and that they could appreciate the warmth and generosity of the Greek people which underlies the country's wider political and economic troubles and unrest. The charm of Athens' historical sites, dingy graffiti-laden back-streets and basic scruffy commercial enterprises intrigued and fascinated Steve, and where better than to experience real Greek food than in a small and unassuming cafe/taverna in Psirri within the confines of the bustling metropolis of Athens. Of course, there was only one thing that Steve wanted to eat - kalamari! Expecting an English-sized portion of squid, you could see Steve's eyes light up at the overflowing plateful that arrived shortly and without ceremony to accompany his newly-acquired love of Mythos beer. Not wanting to miss out on further tastes, he also generously assisted Jeanna in consuming her equally sizeable portion! From then on,kalamari was his overriding passion and desire whenever we went to eat, although he also loved to experience many different Greek ethnic tastes such as Cretan food. The fact that a live Cretan band played well into the night was a bonus for him and his love of music, and he loved the authenticity of the sounds, the dancing, the atmosphere and the Greek people around him. Tired and replete, Steve transformed into that mischievous little boy with the huge grin that we've seen on many occasions, his gaze transfixed on the Cretan fiddle being played with such speed and skill, and with his feet and fingers tapping away to the rhythm. That mischief continued, even into posing for a photo in Syndagma Square with the austerity cuts protesters marching in the background, their banners proclaiming unintelligible Greek protests, and the music interposing with speeches delivered by megaphone. He loved it, and took great delight in telling all and sundry afterwards (with a mischeievous wink) that "he'd marched with the Greek protesters in Athens"!:o) We'll all be the worse without your wisdom, humour, generosity and spirit, Steve, and we can never eat kalamari again without being reminded of you and your mischievous zest for life, old friend. Κάλο ταχίδι, φίλος μας!